Paris Eats
May 2006

We arrived on May 16 and were at our hotel a little after eleven. The room wasn't ready so we strolled down blvd. Saint Germain to Brasserie Lipp. Open early as a concession to the tourists, no doubt, because we were escorted to a tiny corner table in the back but had no company for a few minutes. We'd eaten up front by the sidewalk on a prior trip and I wanted to go inside and catch the atmosphere. I figured we would finish before smoke would be a problem. We watched the waiters preen in the mirrors, all nervous energy for the rush. They would pull a rustic bread and a baguette out of a worn wooden stand and chop three slices of the former and two of the latter for a basket for a two top. One ate a small piece of bread to quell his hunger until he had a chance to eat, probably three hours from now. I was happy to be in Paris and decided to fight jet lag with steak tartare (yes, I'll have it spicy) and frites. FFP had anchovies and salmon tartare. The raw beef was whipped up so it was almost fluffy if that makes sense and was delicious with the capers and Louisiana hot sauce and other spices.

Ah, now we are in Paris! Almost. We crossed the street and tried to completely kill the jet lag with a dark and expensive espresso at Café de Flore. It didn't really work exactly. Sometimes you just have to sleep. But the people-watching was great and the coffee almost worth the price.

In the afternoon, properly refreshed, we visited the La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marché and then went back to the Saint Germain de Pres area. I'd photographed the Belle Epoque exterior of Le Petit Zinc several times before. But I'd never eaten there. We were tired and knew that dinner was probably going to be all we could do this evening. So, why not? The interior was everything the exterior has always promised in decor. Curls of vine-like plaster, curvy wooden outlines on mirrors on the ceiling where we were sitting in the lower dining room. I had an app of two delicious cold fruit soups and a sea bass encrusted with something I shared with FFP. It was presented whole and then split for two people to share. We drank some wine. All was well and we were well-fed for our first day in Paris.

On May 17 we slept a little late and then found a little place where rue de l'Université becomes rue Jacob that served a cheap breakfast of the usual bread and jam with coffee. FFP had some eggs. Thus fortified, we walked to Place de la Madeleine but by the most circuitous route imaginable, taking in two of Paris' English language bookstores ('Paris Reads in English' could be another piece) and walking by the touristy shops on the Rue de Rivoli. Thus by winding in a circle opposite the spiral of arrondisements we did arrive at Place de la Madeleine. One goal was to see if one of our favorite discoveries from the last trip was still there. Terres de Truffes (at 21, rue Vignon) is a little place we discovered on our last trip on a street near the Place. Fortunately, they are still operating and have even expanded. Unfortunately, we tarried too long in bed and at bookstores. They were just finished with lunch service when we arrived. We were disappointed but undaunted. We found out when dinner would be served. Frankly, we were relieved that the place was still there as my WEB searches before we left hadn't revealed a reassuring WEB page. We went back to the Place and strode into the Fauchon on the north side of the church. On our last visit there was a wine and snack tasting area down with the wine and spirits. But Fauchon is notorious, in my experience, for changing the 'in store' dining opportunities. We asked and only the tea room on the east side location was serving food. I'd eaten there with some girl friends and off we went, into the confection and tea shop and up the stairs. I had a plate with two of the best patés I've ever tasted. FFP had what he said was the best club sandwich he'd ever encountered. We washed it down with wine and bottled water, rested from our long walk and used the elegant restrooms. And had the requisite coffee before going back to the hotel to rest before, well, dinner. Already, at this point of the trip, we were planning and touring 'meal to meal.' With books and museums as ideas of ways to whet the appetite.

We walked back to Terres de Truffes when dinner time came. There were scant diners or even people on the street because of a club soccer match being held here between a British team (Arsenal) and Barcelona. The waitress said she guessed the kitchen staff wished they had a TV in there tonight. We ordered a Burgundy. I had swordfish carpaccio with shaved truffles (white, the summer variety, there's a steep surcharge for out-of-season truffles). Followed that with lamb, ditto on the truffles. A hot cheese and truffle dish served as dessert. Yum. As good as I'd remembered.

As we walked back toward the Seine we saw few people on the street. Soccer match must still be on we thought. We saw a TV in a bar and some excited fans so we stepped inside and waited out two rain storms while watching the match and sipping bière (me) and Picon bière (FFP). We watched the bartender make the latter and he slipped a little lemon syrup in as well as the Picon. Picon has become kind of a quest with us since we are having trouble finding it at home. We saw a bottle at La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marché yesterday. It is cheap (13 Euros). I said we should buy some to take home. But, we didn't do it this trip.

May 18 wasn't a great day for food. We met a friend who just happened to be in Paris and had a late breakfast at the same little cheap cafe as yesterday. Good coffee and conversation on the sidewalk but a cold wind was blowing. We had on blazers and had our rain jackets in the pack so I loaned FFP's jacket to our friend. We didn't want to go inside because of the smoking.

We left our friend at a cab stand on Saint Germain to go do some work and went back to the hotel and then took the Métro to the Beaubourg area. Our mission was the Georges Pompidou. There was a special show on we thought we'd enjoy (it turns out we really didn't) and, well, you can't just eat! We bailed after a bit and went to a café hard by the centre. FFP had something like steamed salmon after a bit of a performance about whether certain dishes had cream sauces. The waiter got another waiter, more proficient in English, to help us. I thought he bailed a little fast over my bad French and FFP's English questions. I ordered a croque monsieur. I hadn't had one of the hot ham and cheese sandwiches (sometimes dipped in egg batter) this trip and as cheese, especially hot cheese, is the main reason I have this extra twenty-five or thirity pounds to carry around (that and drinking), I figured 'why not?' The waiter said, "All you English and Australias order the ham and cheese sandwich." I don't think we bothered to point out we were from Texas in the U.S. of A. I think the implication was that more adventurous dishes would be beyond us. We didn't mention that we readily ordered steak tartare or achovies. I thought, "Ah, but tomorrow, my friend we will be dining at Alain Passard's place, Arpège, with three Michelin stars." We didn't say that either. We just laughed. The croque was satisfying and FFP liked his meal. We found ourselves a bit weary and after a walk and a stop at another café for coffee, we took the Métro back to the hotel. We were feeling a little aimless and we ended up confirming our starred meal for tomorrow and deciding to walk down to the restaurant and check out where it was. Arpège is on rue de Varenne at the corner of rue de Bourgogne. It is an area of old buildings, many of which are now government offices. The National Assembly is at the Northern end of rue de Bourgogne in the Palais Bourbon. We didn't know it at this moment, but we would decide that rue de Bourgogne was the street of our Paris culinary dreams. We wandered back down rue de Varenne and at the corner of rue de Bac we found a comfortable sidewalk table at Café Varenne. While consuming some drinks and coffees we watched for a long time as the neighborhood's business was conducted. A lot of the people were stopping off in a bakery (boulangerie) across the street for a baguette and many coming north had sacks from La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marché. There were always two policemen at the corner, chatting and occasionally directing traffic, apparently guarding the neighborhood of diplomats and high government officials. They were frequently relieved by others. Probably for a café break. Lulled into this people-watching, we decided to just order our dinner here. Frankly, it wasn't very good. My rabbit in mustard sauce was tough and not that tasty and whatever FFP had didn't impress him either.

Which is why we ordered a cheese plate at the Jazz Club. Yeah, we wandered back to the Saint Germain area and found a little jazz club on rue Saint-Benoit called The Alliance. They had a table in the back. There was a little smoke but we had some good drinks and a credible cheese plate and when a table nearer the girl-singer-fronted group opened up they let us have it. Our unsatisfying meal was erased. Dodging through rain, we went back to the hotel and we rested up to get ourselves in just the right mood at noon tomorrow when we would dine at Arpège.

So May 19 dawned and our careful plan was put into action. We wanted to be in a serene mood, hungry but not ravenous. Arpège (our destination) was written up in an article by Adam Gopnick in the September 5 issue of The New Yorker last year. He profiled a London chef who specializes in using entire animals in cuisine including parts you might never consider eating and Alain Passard, the chef behind Arpège, who, while hardly eschewing meat (or parts, sweetbreads were on the menu), emphasizes vegetables and lovingly prepares dishes featuring them with produce mostly grown at his garden outside Paris. We love all kinds of food. Both offal and vegetarian. So it sounded great to us. (Actually both restaurants. Have to get to London and try the other.) I had booked an online reservation, confirmed via e-mail. And confirmed again by phone yesterday. For some reason, I'd booked for noon which is silly in Paris where no self-respecting diner gets started before closer to one in the afternoon. They had taken the booking, however.

We decided to eat breakfast in the hotel and then dress up, stroll through a special Magritte exhibit in the Maillol Museum behind our hotel, and walk to the restaurant. We had strong coffee and selections from the hotel's buffet. Some yogurt and cereal for me. And, yes, more coffee, please. The hotel's breakfast was steep, even considering the prices in Paris, but the unlimited coffee was almost worth it for me.

We dressed up...suit and tie for FFP and a suit with a dressy embroidered blouse for me. We armed ourselves with our little travel umbrella as the skies were cloudy and threatening rain again. The Maillol Museum at 59-61 rue de Grenelle was right behind the hotel and we thought a walk through their special exhibit of Magritte works would put us in the proper surrealist mood for dining at a three-star restaurant. It was a great exhibit, too. The posters for it featured a pair of boots morphing into feet and they were in shop windows all over town. But we mustn't stray from eating!

When we left the museum, a school group was assembling outside to descend on the place so our timing was good. The rain was also holding off at the moment. We took a route down rue de Grenelle to waste some more time since we were still early for our ridiculously early reservation. When we got to rue de Bourgogne we headed south and were looking in the windows and noticed a smart-looking restaurant called Auguste. Later research would reveal that Michelin awarded it two forks as opposed to Arpège's three stars. Nevertheless, stepping inside to get a card from them was going to lead to our annointing rue de Bourgogne with our 'street of culinary dreams' award. (Or perhaps that should be "rue de les rêves de l'art culinaire.") We arrived a bit before noon. Only a minute or so, but they are still taking delivery of bread and organizing themselves. Seated in the smart dining room with wood accents, etched glass panels and interesting sculpture, we were greeted warmly and ordered some sparkling water while we waited for things to really begin.

We are interested in having the tasting menu and after negotiating the issue at hand (cream and milk don't work for FFP) we get a modified tasting menu with a substituion on the first course. I keep saying to waiters: "mon mari ne mange pas crème ou lait." Although I probably should say something more like "my husband cannot make to eat cream or milk" (only in French). My French skills are limited, education or not. However, English works, too. We ask for the sommelier's help with the wine list.

"Sommeliere," the waiter corrects. me. Sure enough (and I understand French enough to get this subtlety) their sommelier is really a sommeliere and she arrives at the table with the little grape cluster on her lapel to show her station. Perhaps it's no accident that she and FFP agreed on the 2002 Domaine Michelot Mère et Fille Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne. It is expensive (although less than the food total!) but it is utterly delicious. For our first course we had a little lobster teaser that was substitued for what looked like an interesting egg dish served in the shell because that dish had cream. One of the most stunning tastes came next in vegetable ravioli. A sweet onion gratin ensued. Then the tastiest spinach and carrots I've ever eaten, puréed and redolent with care, herbs (and maybe that garden outside Paris). The lotte (monkfish) in a mustard sauce came with these miniature lima beans (or something very like limas) that were delicious. I'd have eaten them in the sauce alone. All the dishes had been small and much time had elapsed. But it was starting to add up and I admit I was a little full. The room was no longer empty but there were free tables. There was an older man with a broad-brimmed hat and a floppy tie (looking like a egotistical French artist) sitting with a young woman near the door and several other tables of diners were casually eating meals at hundreds of Euros a pop.

But, of course, we weren't done. There was the matter of cheese, dessert and coffee. The cheese was offered from a cart full of beautiful artisanal cheeses. Besides assuring us that we should have some of a giant wheel of aged cheese, the waitress offered selections based on our desire to dabble in the output of sheep and goats. The cheese course is often a highlight for me, but this was especially so. I guess we looked in our element because they offered to cut some more for us! But we moved on to dessert. A rhubard mille-feuille arrived. Fresh, not too sweet. We both loved it. We lingered over an espresso because, at this point, hang the expense! Besides it was raining outside.

We did finally leave the restaurant. We were sleepy. The rain had let up but a block or two into our digestive walk, it started pelting down. One traveler's umbrella was all we had. No rain jackets. So we did the sensible thing and popped into a small bar and propped open our eyes with espresso that no longer looked expensive. When the rain abated, we headed back to the hotel. But we didn't nap. (I'd fully expected to do it, too.) Instead we changed clothes and got our rain jackets and some books and went to a café and watched people ending their Friday activities by stopping off for a coffee or a drink or to meet people or by bustling by with their baguettes, headed home. We also walked through the art deco hotel Lutetia on the way, noting their (expensive) restaurants and bars. (A friend had advised us it was down the street from our hotel, the K+K Cayre, and that it had been taken over by the Nazis during the World War II occupation.)

We decided to walk some more after sitting in the one café a while. Back to the Saint Germain area, we ended up in the covered sidewalk area of Deux Magots (there is a non-smoking one facing Saint Germain), avoiding what was a fierce little wind. It's amazing how many coffees and drinks we consumed this way. I love it.

Finally, we succumbed to the seduction of the nap. When we awoke, FFP declared that Italian food would put the fitting end on the day. We got some advice from the desk about a place to go, but on the way I remembered that the Armani store next to Brasserie Lipp had a restaurant. We stopped there and had a delightful meal that included a lagniappe app of fresh cherry tomatoes and some eggplant dip or something and a grilled calamari dish that would be my favorite squid until Sunday. It was crowded and noisy but the food (and the wine) was good and the help and the people crammed near us on the banquette were friendly. We weren't ready for the day's pleasures to end, though. We went back to the hotel, got some books from the room and sat at the Saint Germain Café at the busy intersection of rue de Bac, blvd. Raspail and blvd. Saint Germain having a nightcap. We were entertained by the bustle of traffic, a friendly waiter and a couple of American girls who were staying in our hotel who recommended having breakfast at a café just down the street. Gourmet food and much café sitting produced a nice sleep.

I had decided that May 20, Saturday, would be our day to go to the 16th Arrondissement and see the Marmottan Museum. I'd always wanted to see that museum. But, of course, it's all about food, isn't it? We ate breakfast in the hotel because it was raining a bit and when it let up we took the Métro to the 16th. After we'd visited the museum, we found a little Italian place called Dino's and waited out a rain. I thought we'd been transported to the Upper East Side in New York. Smartly, but casually, dressed families crowded into the place. A flat screen TV ran some cartoon movie. I had a pizza with a fresh salad and shaved parmesan on top which was wonderful and FFP had some ravioli that he pronounced delicious with a tomato and herbal sauce redolent of fennel and almost crisp pasta. We dodged through a street of market shops (cheese, meat, wine, spirits, produce) after that. Great little area. Would have been better on a clearer day. (We also found and visited a Balzac Musuem in some house where he lived. I collect Balzac Museums. But that's another story.)

Back in 'our own neighborhood' around Saint Germain we did a gallery crawl, drawn by a photographer's work being exhibited in one of the galleries. (There were posters all over for it.) Trying to decide what to do for the evening, we had large Picon Bières at Cafe de Flores. I hadn't brought along FFP's book so he wandered over to the newstand and came back with the English version of Time Out Paris. We started looking for, ahem, places to eat. Restaurant Le Voltaire (27, Quai Voltaire) caught FFP's eye. I guess we'd cycled through the starry gourmet and the Italian aftermath and he was ready for the classic brasserie fare again. Back in the hotel room, we put on blazers and, walking right by L'Alelier de Joel Robuchon (must go there some time), we headed toward the Seine and reached the restaurant at the Quai Voltaire, at the corner of rue de Beaune. Of course, we were too early (they opened at seven) so we walked around peeking in some of the shops. We also didn't have a reservation. (We had only made one reservation before arriving, at Arpège, and we would only make one other on the spot.) But having arrived as soon as they opened the doors (at seven), we were accommodated. We had a nice Burgundy. I started with anchovies over shaved fennel. It was delightful. Then I had rabbit in mustard sauce. This was amazing and erased my earlier lesser experience at Café Varenne. It was huge. A big portion like in Germany somewhere where they serve your plate and then leave a platter with what won't fit. FFP's appetizer was more pedestrian but he had the calf's liver entrée and he loved it. We spent most of the meal chatting to a woman from Sherman Oaks, California who was going on a barge trip the next day.

We strolled back and FFP suggested having an overpriced after dinner drink at the Lutetia bar. He put on a tie and we went down there. They have two bars, actually, but the larger one off the lobby seemed more inviting. The tables were miles apart and there were these two deco, partially-clothed ladies leaning backwards supporting lighted globes. A typical deco decoration. Only these were bigger than life, six feet tall at least. There was a pink piano with Picasso-like decoration and we sat near that. We noticed a muscian setting up. We ask when the music would start. "Maintenant [now]" was the answer. So we settled in to spend a bit over a hundred Euro on several drinks. I had a delicious Manhattan. (OK, two!) We watched people come and go and listened to a singer from California and her French band. With a couple of other great jazz pianists and another singer sitting in for a song or two. While the drinks were expensive, there was no cover for the show. A bargain, some would say. And it was surreal how we'd just stumbled in at the right time. We stayed until they did the last number.

May 21 was Sunday. We started sort of late with breakfast at a nearby café called Les Flores (as opposed to the famous Café de Flore further east in the 6th). Those girls had recommended it a couple of days ago. I'd always intended to explore Montparnasse. I like cemeteries, of course, and there is one there. But they also have famous cafés! And there are some Sunday markets. And from where we are staying on this trip, we can simply walk to this area. We do catch a couple of markets and we walk by Le Select which is bustling. At the market across from the cemetery (which wasn't the food market but an art market), there are people on stilts dressed like plants. Go figure.

It didn't take much cemetery wandering to make us want to sit at a café. We went to Le Dôme on blvd. du Montparnasse and settled into one of a few tables outside. I nursed a coffee and FFP a Perrier. I paid and had some coin on the table for a pour boire (a small tip, literally 'for drinking'). FFP noticed a clochard (vagrant) hanging about, hoping we would leave and he, not the waiter, could scoop these up. We had in mind a visit to an obscure museum atop the Gare Montparnasse. But surely, before we could do that, we had to eat! It was getting to be lunch time for Parisians and a few were drifting inside Le Dôme. So we went inside after assuring ourselves that the coins went to our outside waiter. Inside the place we saw massive seafood arrangements going by. We weren't ravenous however. So we decided to order two apps and follow that with a shared cheese plate. I got baby squid in its ink stuffed with a sort of ratatouille and FFP got frogs' legs. Both dishes were absolutely delicious. The cheese plate was fine and the coffee a delight. A couple of glasses of wine and some water were also consumed.

Delighted with our meal, we managed to discover and tour the museum...one dedicated to the French resistance in WWII and tucked away in a park that sits on top of the Montparnasse railway station. We walked back and had a longish rest and refresh at the hotel. We decided to simply go to the St. Germain across the street for dinner and street entertainment. I opted for the mozzarella and tomato salad which was huge, cheap and delicious.

Monday, May 22, was Picasso and the Marais day. Until the afternoon in any case. Dinner would find us choosing an odd place indeed. We started our day planning at Les Flores again over some bread and coffee. We were on the Métro just after rush hour. We made a special show at the Picasso Museum and then made our way to the Place des Vosges. There used to be a little restaurant we liked on the rue de le Pas de la Mule which stretches east from the north side of the square. It's there no more and was replaced by some restaurant with a new name. It's no longer Mule du Pape. (I guess the mule was the pope's mule??) No, it is something Sœurs (sisters). We didn't get a chance to try it. This day we settled in at La Nectarine under the east arches. FFP had a forgetable coq au vin. (He'd pronounce one he had at Capitol Brasserie here in Austin a sensation a few weeks later. It's a Monday special there if you are in Austin!) I had a crêpe stuffed with my choice of ingredients...I had some tomato and garlic and cheese I think. It was OK.

So it wasn't much of a culinary day, really. We really enjoyed the Picasso museum and the special show there and we had a great time at a bookstore we found after talking to some Aussies at La Nectarine and we had a very interesting time at a reading at Shakespeare and Company. But this is about the food. So...after that reading...we were looking for dinner. Wandering through the area of the cheap eats in the 5th, we were besieged with barkers harking their various ethnic restaurants. This just didn't appeal. We went back to the 6th and wandered around until we ended up at La Boussole. We had our doubts as it was crowded and a little smoky but the "cuisine française aromatisée aux saveurs et parfums du monde" turned out to be pretty pleasant. The wine we chose wasn't great, but I ordered a gazpacho that was really nice. I had to trade with FFP because his app had cream but it was good, too. The tajine I had was just spicy enough. After almost a week in Paris, this kind of fare was really pretty satisfying. As we dodged spits of rain on our way back to the hotel, it occurred to me that tomorrow was our last day in Paris this trip. We'd have to make sure that food wasn't neglected!

On May 23 we found ourselves at Les Flores again, plotting our day. We had in mind to catch the Cezanne and Pissarro show at the Musée d'Orsay. It was our last chance at that. We figured if we queued before they opened the doors, we could finish our visit in time for...lunch. FFP still had in his mind since Friday about that restaurant we'd noticed on the rue de Bourgogne, Auguste. In fact, he'd called over the weekend and couldn't understand the phone message and I'd called back and they were closed on weekends according to the message. We enjoyed the musuem but we found ourselves on rue de Bourgogne around 12:30, looking to dine, not just eat. When we presented ourselves at the small Auguste, however, we found it fully booked for lunch. We made a reservation for dinner and as we were about to step out FFP asked for a recommendation for another place that might have a table for lunch. "Just up the street," said the nice woman, "Marguerite."

Sure enough we found Tante Marguerite (Aunt Margaret) almost at the Palais Bourbon (the National Assembly meets there). This restaurant looked incredibly smart. I'd thrown a blazer on after the museum but had on jeans (they were black ones, though) and hiking boots. FFP had on a jacket and dress shoes but no tie. However, we were ushered to a table in a friendly manner. We ordered some house Burgundy. I noticed a case over FFP's shoulder with some souvenirs on offer and they included a book by Dominque Loiseau called Mon Mari. "Hmm, I thought, wasn't he the chef who committed suicide after his restaurant was downgraded?" [I was thinking he lost a Michelin star for his Burgundy restaurant, Côte d'Or. But actually the loss of a star was only a rumor and didn't really happen and it is thought he was reacting to Gault Millau downgrading his restaurant.] Turns out that Tante Marguerite was part of Loiseau's empire and still is because his widow and the other chefs keep it going. The wine we were drinking was made by the Loiseau group, I believe.

Well, the food was stellar. Our bill was about ninety Euros and including the carafe (half bottle) of wine. We had the prix fixe. There were delicious complimentary slices of air-dried beef and little baked things. I chose a zucchini/eggplant cannelloni for the first course. Served with a tomato coulis it was absolutely unbelievable. Delicate, fresh-tasting and delicious. I had lamb with cous-cous and grilled zucchini for my entrée. The sauce was so full of flavor that you knew it had been rendered and reduced for days. We had a fruit 'nage' for dessert--very fresh fruit swimming in a 'broth' of juice and probably some sort of liqueur with miniature madeleines. There were delicious little complimentary mini-desserts, too.

Always looking ahead we were of course thinking that Auguste (our dinner reservation) must be pretty good if they had steered us to this wonderful place when they were full.

We spent a little time in the afternoon café sitting, but we were still early for our 8PM reservation at Auguste. We wandered around on rue de Bourgogne, our new culinary street of dreams. I'll bet we can't come back to Paris without coming here at least once. In fact, we collected a few cards from the hotels on the street!

Auguste did not diappoint. From addictive cheese puffs at the beginning to complimentary homemade caramels (delicious, not too sweet, and not sticky on the dental work) at the end, it was a delight. I had a smoked salmon 'cannelloni' with fresh cheese served atop a gelée that tasted like champagne. I had a delicious duck dish. FFP had foie gras, fish with red pepper and another nage. (It was good, he said, but not as good as the one at Tante Marguerite.) I didn't have dessert, having eaten my weight in the cheese puffs. We had quaffed a nice bottle of wine. It was our 'last meal' this trip. Unless you count the breakfast the next day at Les Flores before we took a taxi to the airport.

Here are some references.

Brasserie Lipp
151, Bld. Saint-Germain
75006 Paris
Email: ILALipp@ila-chateau.com
( For general information only. For
reservations please supply your FAX number )

Café de Flore
172 Boulevard Saint-Germain
75006 Paris
Tél : 01 45 48 55 26
Bureaux : 01 45 44 07 17

La Grande Epicerie de Paris
38, rue de Sèvres
75007 Paris

Le Petit Zinc
11 rue St-Benoit
75006 Paris
Tél. : 01.42.86.61.00
Open from noon to 1AM

Fauchon Tea Room
Place de la Madeleine
75008 Paris

Terres de Truffes
21, rue Vignon
75008
Tel 01 53 43 80 44
Near Place de la Madeleine

Arpège
84, rue de Varenne
75007 PARIS
Tel : +33 (0)1 47 05 09 06
Fax : + 33 (0)1 44 18 98 39
Email : arpege@alain-passard.com

Deux Magots
6 place Saint Germain des Prés
75006 Paris
01 45 48 55 25

Emporio Armani Paris
149, Boulevard St. Germain
Paris, France 75006
Tel. 33-1-53633350
Fax. 33-1-45485317

Le Voltaire
27, Quai Voltaire
1, rue de Beaune
75007
Tel 01 42 61 17 69
Closed Monday

Hotel Lutetia
45 Boulevard Raspail
75006 Paris

Le Dôme
108, bd du Montparnasse
75014 Paris
01 43 35 25 81

La Boussole
12, rue Guisarde
75006 Paris
Tel: 01 56 24 82 20

Tante Marguerite
5, rue de Bourgogne, 75007
Tel 01 45 51 79 42
tantemarguerite@bernard-loiseau.com
Monday through Friday

Restaurant Auguste
54, rue de Bourgogne
75997
Tel 01 45 51 61 09
Closed weekends.

Here are some foody pictures!

The unused sugars and chocolates and such from the many cups of espresso.

Le Dôme espresso

Barthelmy's Cheese Shop

Picon bière at Café de Flore.

Dressed like plants.

Market in Montparnasse.

Cheese shop in the 16th Arrondisement.